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I was delighted to discover that the south Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Place in a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a container. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.